opa 627bp in MHZS cd33

Agree with both of u that DIY is quite fun n really learn a lot..... : )

Viewer,
Do u know any place in HK can repair the tweeter/speaker drive? My friend's Monitor audio tweter partially burn and it is old model not easy to get replacement thus may need repair. He will go HK next monday.

Is vocative or sound explorer can do the repair?

Abharder,

If u wish to try the tungsol tube i can lend it to u....don't always WE396A only...ha..ha.. if not later your modification will be same as superwhite...

Don't tell me your taste is exactly same as superwhite....

Ha..ha... yaloh..everyone have his own taste : )
some doubt need u all's advice....

i had measure the voltage across my 47uF/160V e-cap & found that the measured voltage is 115V, in this case do u think a blackgate 47uF/100V e-cap can sustain/work with 115V?

he..he we still do some modification, especially on power side... as u said modification is fun...n i also enjoy it....

what i worry is that when i keep put in n remove the cap at the same place...the board will damage fast....my board material not very good leh... if the component on the circuit board can plug &play then will be easier : )

so far had change the power coupling cap, a few resistor, the 47uF/160v ecap (last month). last week just change the opa5532 to 2604 and some cap...but found not that nice then cahnge backthe cap n remain 2604.

my problem is that i feel that my sound is more musical n confortable before change to 2604... even though 2604 is much clear n detail...

so no choice i still need to do more modification to obtain the sound i want : )

Anyway must thanks viewer &superwhite who help me a lot in this....

Abharder,

Try to listen to your ear on your system, it might be different from you thought.....if u 12 try just let me know lah....i got 2tungsol....

viewer,

u now using CD33 with the lite DAC or using CD33 without using DAC?

Viewer,
your DAC很有型！If want me to mod like you i will 手软 :?
so i better just 乖乖do some mod on my cdp enough...
Since u had use UCC spp i would like your opinion.
Is ucc spp sound better than their tin foil cap? but the tin foil cap is more expensive oh!
compare UCC SPP to SCR fast cap(tin foil) any difference? i saw the price similar...


ahharder,
Don't scare buy superwhite... if u want the biedix 2C51 then much cheaper, the eclipse-pioneer (bendix old version) not bad, it is ~USD7only not include delivery cost yet... if u 12 try tell me lah... unless u like vocal very very much then keep WE396enough....

superwhite,

Thank you brother.....

after use the ZL on the power side, bass improve.... so quite satisfy at the moment...

for the tube i more frequent use eclipse pioneer, 2nd is tungsol, 3rd is WE since i seldom listen to pure vocal..... will return the we to u when collect the FC.....

VIEWER,

Forget to ask you how much in HK for the wima black box 0.1uF?

If do bypass/parellel, with SCR, wima black box or UCC SPP will give better effect?

viewer,

by the way is teh PB-MKP-FC is sam as SCR? But i understand that the SCR should be film &foil right? what model of SCR i should buy for my opa coupling? i worry later my friend buy wrongly.... the new SCR should be whole black include the side is also black right?

VIEWER,

u misunderstand i actulally asking which combination is better?
1) solen scr +0.1wima black box
2) solen scr +0.1 ucc spp

since both wima & ucc is sharp which 1 is best to match SCR?

For solen PB-MKP-FC is it ok to be use in speaker cross-over since it is quite cheap.... since my AE use 3 cap -->5.5uF, 6.0uF & 8.8uF

maybe i just passby them with UCC SPP 0.1uF, shld be ok right?

[quote:089474a7dd="superwhite"]Hi WINDWSS,

Since so much problem to match with this n that, try to Mod the Power side first loh, more easy, no need to headache, that 1 wait until LAST to MOD loh, you still got so many thing to MOD, the biggest effect after MOD is POWER SUPPLY for the TUBE, especially the 100uF100V, 47uf 160V n the solen cap 1uf, i suggest GET THE BEST ONE, like AUDIONOTE, MUNDORF Silver/Gold, JENSEN Silver, REL-CAP or Cardas Cap for the 1uf value. the rest of the E-cap use the BG N series, will give you SURPRISE! :shock:  :shock:  :shock: (especially on SOUND n also PRICE)hehehe... :  :  : .[/quote]

I do a testing lastnight, change the elna silmic 100uF/50v to sparague 10uF/50v, so bass slightly soft&slow but detail improve, vocal more stand out and generally more musical... thus i guess if i change to BG N series 10uF or 22uF will have more improvement....

[quote:d54a987775="superwhite"]Hi viewer,

Look like price not cheap, will compare whether change or MOD my existing speaker. can i change all the cross over cap to jensen copper oil, will this help? to improve the clarity n bass?[/quote]

Superwhite,

If u want proAC response 2.5, i will suggest u to make 1 (DIY), i got the diagram, and LEDA can sell u the kit include x-over... it is clone of proc Ac... then u just get some carpenter here to do the box for u in m'sia... total cost is ~RM 2000+ only....

Superwhite,

Since u already invole in DIY..so diy a proAc better than buy a new speaker lah...

i attch a simple picture another 3.5mb file on diy it can't be attached.... will put in pendrive later transfer to u.... Leda can provide u the exact material or even better material....on this...

viewer & superwhite,

last night i had replace 3pcs rubycon 4700uF/25v to panasonic FC. The initial result (1st 1-2hr) is terrible, sound like can't come out, stiff, not smooth, bass is increase a bit....but generally become slightly blur.... so i let it on for the whole night.....

then this morning sound slightly better, more smooth & better vocal & bass, blur reduce a bit but still not as good as previously...

Viewer in your experience normally, how long FC will take to be in good performance?

Viewer,

Thank you very much for your info & advice....

superwhite,

my cdp use mix quality of rubycon lah..got yxf, HR, YK(standard) and so on... let the FC run for more time then only can justify..... so far the improvement is less than change the 2pcs 100uF/100v YK to ZL.....

i had just send a list of BG i want to u just now!

viewer,

U r right, after run in ~20+hr, the FC perform better liao... clearity come back, vocal much nicer than the rubycon standard, bass a lot.....

Just to check with u, is the FC better than the Elna JRR and also the Elna duorex (old cap in my audiolab)??

superwhite,

so when the BG will arrive?? feel excited to try it...

i just otain my rubycon ZL from farnell..so tonight will repalce another 7caps...
later will change all small yk to ZA, middle-large cap to FC or ZL, important cap to BG....

Now start compare the elna spec with FC & ZL/ZL, if spec show FC or ZL/ZA better then will change all the old cap in my audiolab....

thank viewer for info.

[quote:047cb6be0f="Abhader08"]hi superwhite,

the panasonic cap really can not be used, the bass is terrible soft :x
it is not as good as rubycon, may be i have boil it enough time.
i think we should look for another brand, we have to do more reserch about this high value cap.
Your Chai chin old songs is with me now. better collect it back today cause the following days i am very busy, Saft singapore will send a representative come over i have to entertain him until 30th Nov.
how is our black Gate's order? r u done the purchasing?[/quote]

Abhader,

Be patient.... let the cap run >30hrs then only made decision (FC seems sound terrible before run in) ... besides, after u change the other small cap to BG, your bass will be ok...
I thought u like sofa sound.. ha..ha...
If after run in and install small BG cap still not satisfy then try change to rubycon ZL series loh.... (the ZL seems to have harder/tigher bass but not as sweet/musical as FC).

Dear All (special to viewer & superwhite),

I need help!!!!

Last night when i play the CD, half way of the song the CD player suddenly stop playing, i try to press play button and the display show "no disc" then i try eject n replay the disc turn a few round then show" no disc" change to other disc, at 1st show no disc, then try to tighten the connection, and try again, then one a while can play a CD. But show no disc again when change disc.
try plug & replug the cable...still no improvement then the display is totally gone(no display at all).

the power led is still on(ok), tube power ok(stil got light), cd player mechanism still ok can eject &put in disc. when press play button can hear a "click" sound but no disc movement.. the cd head won't move to detect the disc.
Is there any sensor responsible to detect the CD? which cable is responsible for the display & cd head sensing? (the flat cable?

Superwhite, i will trouble shoot again tonight, if still can't work then need your help oh!!!

viewer,

now there is no dispaly show at all....

pls refer picture is this 470uF/35v cap have any effect on the cd head/reader? wht's its function? i incidently damage the pad while change cap... so i just use pass by wire to connect....

Viewer,

thank for advise, will try out tonight!
by the way i'm not very understand KK ho's suggest,
may i know what the MCU? and what the VFD?

Thank you all of you! very very thank you!

Look like superwhite is my good brother! my cdp problem then his CDP also follow.

Viewer,
i had follow you&kk sir suggestion to unplug &replug the MCU, also clean the laser head, apply oin at gear&motor. But didn't check the VFD volatage since i'm not sure what is VFD?? can u guide me to check this voltage? VFD stand for?

The result:
1) Still no display but can play certain CD (shld be good CD or CD with thicker al layer & better reflection), the laser head will only scan & play certain slecteded CD. It will not scan & play most HK make pop song CD and totally will not play the clone CD.

2) The MCU will have a "tak" sound when it ready to start play CD, is it normal? how to check whtehr MCU is good?

3) If the player is off >several hour,  it will need ~2-3time try (mean eject & insert again) even for "good CD).

4) It seems that the laser head become quite sensitive to the CD, so is it laser head problem? or the change of e-cap can cause the head become sensitive?

Recently i had change opa5532 to opa2604, 3pcs 4700uF/25v,(last 2weeks)
2pcs 2200/16v, 2pcs1000/16v ecap, 1pcs 470uf/35v (last week) -problem happen afetr 3day these cap change.


Thank you.

viewer,

By the way, what's the proper way to clean the laser head??

[quote:00c99e85c1="viewer"]Hi windwss,

I think your cdp's VDF was burn. call k.k.sir to help you.

Clean lease head:

use 火洒加水.塗在 cotton and clean the head

thanks.[/quote]

I think so...will ceheck teh voltage of the VDF tonight...., but the VDF shouldn't disturb the CDP to play right?

Some article advise not to use 火洒 because it will damage the front layer of the lens, is it true?

superwhite,

your 1 is relay die only....
my1 most probably the laser head die : (

thinking to DIY a proAc response 1sc, now do research on cabinet construction.....

Hi Viewer & Superwhite,

I manage to fix my CDP problem on read the CD. Yesterday, i try to adjust the white button at the laser lense(can be turn clockwise or anti-clockwise) then it can read all the CD again.... i guess maybe after i change some ecap and it caus ethe voltage to the laser lense change so need to adjust teh white button for fine tune. then i do an experiment where i change some e-cap again n the same problem happen then i adjust the white button then it ok again.

May i know what exactly teh function of the white button at the back of the laser lens?

thanks viewer,

what's the correct volatage to the laser head? if later i replace a new laser haed i will need to adjust it right?

Besides, any good model/brand for the replacement?
the replacement can be done by ouself right? just unplug the cable, unscrew the laser head & repalce it right?

ss

VIEWER,

U r right, my laser head is KSS 213C.

I thought we can change it to a better brand like philips : (

ok...

another question:

refer to the picture, this 4 small cap is same value: 100uF/16V.
May i know which cap is couple witch which cap? i'm thinking to chnage 2 with elna (got 2 elna 100uf/50v) and 2 with ZL(100uF/100v).

is it A pair with B, and C pair with D??

viewer & superwhite,

Another question, can i change the 47uF/160v ecap at power side to 100uF/150v? (in cd33 yours is 100uF/160v-supply power for 2 tube)

i had measure the voltage it is 115v so 150v is ok, but i'm not sure 100uF will spoilt the player not?? since original is 47uF.
Because i wish to change to BG stnd 100uF/150v.

[quote:bb011d349b="superwhite"]Hi WINDWSS,

Hi bro, how is the result of BG? any improvement?? hope you dont poison by this tiny stuff..... :  :  :[/quote]

I almost 毒发身亡!
It have tremendous improvement on my Audiolab (just replace 3 BG standard at the power side).

But for CDP, even i use 2 BG Nseries, got improvement but not that much compare to the rate of improvement of audiolab..... But at least it neutralize a bit my rubycon zl , sound not as sharp as previousely...

So planning to rplace all the cap at power side of cdp with BG step by setp...since BG damn expensive....

viewer,

Since u had use ERO MKP1845 & WIMA MKP-10, which 1 is better?

MKP 1845 better right? thinking of changing the WIMA MKP-10 (1000VDC,600VAC, 0.1uF) near power filter....

Viewer,

Good then i can get the new ROE 1845 at Farnell only at RM 15 (~hk30)...


Superwhite ,

u don't poisson me lah!!! if not i will ask my wife to kill u!  :twisted:  :twisted:

i goto Octave justnow...
wow their 47u/160v BG VK sell at sky price lah...... crazy...
most probably tomolo will go farnell if got time...


viewer,
do u think i parallel a ERO 0.1uF/0.02uF to the rubycon 47uF/160v ecap got any efect not?

[quote:4392fd0bee="viewer"]Hi superwhite and windwss,

Have you feel the heat problem in our cdp, when it play around 30 half hour, because tube is provided a lot of heat and the cdp no holes.

So i have made two holes 1"on the top of CDP33. the problem be solved.

Thanks for sharing.[/quote]

Yes, my cdp also quite hot after long hour playing.....
u ope hole at top or back side??
why not just take out the plastic/glass on top of your CDP?? YOUR CD33 have a transparent glass on top of the tube right?

[quote:635b0e75a3="superwhite"]Hi viewer,

me too hot, but no choice, have to use small fan to blow the cd player, if hot. for me it not practicalif open hole on top, bcoz my house got alot of dust, i cant make hole on top, if make also will make side of the casing :wink:  

Hi WINDWSS,

the cd33 is different from cd 55 only on the glass on the casing. viewer 1 without the glass.

the the ecap you want to parallel is for the TUBE VOLTAGE reservoir right? do you think parallel it will give much effect? To supply voltage woh, if you parallel the cap, i scare got side effect, hope you dont try it.... if you want to change to new cdp then can have a try :wink: And it is not a signal side. :roll:

Thanks for sharing[/quote]

i don't think putting a 0.022uF will have much side effect...no harm to try : ) if die then die loh... can learn more trouble shooting skill..... mistake make us to learn more!

Viewer,

Sorry to disturb u again!!

unfortunately MKP 1845 only have small uF, for large value like 2.2uF and above only MKT 1813 is available.

Do u know any sound diffrence between  MKP 1845 & MKT 1813?

Besides, if use as cap for speaker cross over is the MKT 1813 (polyester) beter than solen old cap (PB-MKP-FC)?

thank you viewer...then today will go made some order...

hmm just receive my new panasonic audio grade ecap...

look good...but sound don't know lah...guess shld be better than FC

VIEWER,
Don't know oh, since in the farnell manual it written as audio cap & is new cap ..but u r right, it is not copper with tin layer....

dear viewer,

If not mistaken the FC i bought previousely, the leg also not copper with tin layer......

the fc with leg of copper 7 tin layer is old version if not mistaken....new version maybe had "偷工减料“

superwhite,
yesterday i help my fiend to replace 3 BG cap into his audiolab...so difficult, his audiolab's hole is smaller than mine, the position also very close to corner.....take me >1hr to make the cap pin smaller n so on...


viewer,
do u know what's the function of the feroid fluid in the speaker drive? i had check my friend's tweeter, the coil inside is ok and it have sound too. only problem is the sound volume is ~30% of the other good 1..... do u think the feroid fluid amount will affect the volume?

SUPERWHITE,

Why don't u open a new title "Modify audiolab 8000S/A" in this forum?
put your photo in then thos who use audio lab can share lah...

this cd33 forum very long till 19 page already!

[quote:e020d1c120="superwhite"]Hi WINDWSS,

Maybe you can open also mah.... :wink: if open AUDIOLAB treat, i got to bring my audiolab 8000S to see any different on sound with 8000A. [/quote]

u open then i also attach some info loh!

u 12 bring ur super 8000s to kill my 8000A ah? u 12 poisson me some moh meh??

aharder,

u had use the Panasonic eca?? i had just install in last night, seems acceptable....

dear all,

my mkp 1845 just arrive today...will try it out soon....

had replace the wima mkp-10 with roe mkp 1845, the improvement is good... more detail but not harsh, more comfortable sound...so as viewer said it is really a low price high gain cap.... suitable for people we like acceptable improvement with low budget.