The CD33E sound getting better, after i change the position of my speakers, or its getting burn in with the upgraded components.
alfcat can u give me your address so i can send the remote to you,
and should you gone to china before you receive my remote, can u get me a new remote, i will pay you later is that ok?
Thanks alfcat
kkwan@btopenworld.com
PS i us to have a Black persian cat called Garfield, is your a white persian with blue eyes?
You can still mail me the remote if you want me to test it out for you. OR you can find someone who has a CD 33/66/88 and test it out. They use the same remote.
If you want to mail it to me, make sure you put INSURANCE on it. I lost two packages with the Royal Mail in the past.
We should be going up next week or the week after ....
I check the voltage output on the led(on the remote) when the button are press, there is voltage difference, so i presume the remote is working.
But this leads to the recieving end, in the CDP the sensor or any of the circuit todo with it. All the control on the cdp is working fine, any idea?........
did you check the wire in the remote ??????
normally remote not easy out of service.
if very thing is fine, you may order a new once, alfcat may help you, because he know the shop for mhzs cdp in china.
good luck.
I got a pair of Bendix, which is pretty good. I am now switching to WE396a as I got it some time ago. To me, the two pairs sound very much alike.
CD 33 remote? I can check with the Chinese Sales I deal with. Don't expect an answer until one week from now as he checks mail not very often. We will probably go again in December, if the price is right, I can get it for you.
Thanks alfcat & Koifarm for your advice on the dac-ah.
What Electron Tubes u use in your CD33, i replaced the original 6N3 with the JAN 5670W found that its sounded a bit restrained, which other tubes to replace the 6N3 apart from the WE396A which i dont know where to get it from.
All so any body know where i can get a replacement remote control for the CD33 my 1 stop working and the price for it, i dont want to go through Ebay.
I am newbie to the club here, like u i also brought a CD33 and follow some of your mods, which made it sound good, but when i put it next to my friends Linn karik-Perpetual P3a, his sounds more space and more musical then my poor CD33, although the CD33 makes the vocal more forward sounding then my friends setup.
Coming to the point, can i improve my my CD33 with a lite Dac-AH or the P3A Dac(which i can get secondhand) which 1 to buy?
Dear KKwan
Because you already have the MHZS player, you should buy an external DAC like the lite DAC-AH. Now you can play vocal music straigh from the MHZS player and instrumental music from the lite DAC-AH.
A little mod for the lite DAC-AH i can recommend. Bypass the opamp section by taking the left/right output straigh from the I/V resistors with a 10 uF condensator. The DAC-AH improves in detail and space.
Ha..ha.. I am also NEW; just join this forum in April or so.
I am not an "Electronics" man but I can share with you some of my experience.
The CD33 to ME is an experiment only. It produces acceptable sound, especially female vocal at a very reasonable price. But if you like other types of music as well, e.g. classical ... it performs pretty poor. If you want a full range CD player, I would say you have to find something else rather then the CD33.
The LITE DAC-AH brings in some improvement. I have it as external now as I don't have the time to put it inside the CD 33. I got the LITE at $ 650 and it shows some improvements only (for certain CD but not all).
Follow the other links here and you can see what Koifarm, t, KIKO and the others had done / suggested to improve the CD33. These guys are more knowledgable than I am for SURE ....
If you need further information, just drop me a note.
I am newbie to the club here, like u i also brought a CD33 and follow some of your mods, which made it sound good, but when i put it next to my friends Linn karik-Perpetual P3a, his sounds more space and more musical then my poor CD33, although the CD33 makes the vocal more forward sounding then my friends setup.
Coming to the point, can i improve my my CD33 with a lite Dac-AH or the P3A Dac(which i can get secondhand) which 1 to buy?
No wonder you were so "quiet" these days. Ha..ha... you were busy modifying your Cayin 15a. No wonder.
Been VERY busy these two weeks. My CD 33 is okay now after I changed the White / Grey Flat Cable. The Chinese Sales gave me two of those free of charge.
I bought a LITE DAC-AH today in China. I was hoping to use the board in the CD33 but need to figure out HOW it should be done first. "t" is telling / helping me in the other thread.
To my surprise, the LITE DAC-AH standalone makes a lot of difference. I plug it in to the Matisse and my wife says "Wow ... what happened?" The Depth, Openess and Clarity all improved. As the Matisse got more than ONE input, I can switch between using and not using the DAC by the turn of the knob. Even my daughter feels a lot of difference there. Just hope I can inplant the PCB into the CD 33 later.
Will try to understand more of your Cayin modification after I finished marking all the exam / tests.
I finished the modification of my Cayin cdt-15a
1. re-moved the power filter.
2. add clock for transport.
3. changed IC to opa627bp.
4. changed wires of output to cardas.
5. replace some caps on tube pcb.
its sound is greater than my MHZS cd33 heary modification.
photo :http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m289/viewer_2006/SANY0488.jpg?t=1194446148
If the cd33 have many problem I suggest to changed it to cayin cdt-15a, it will be let you have amazing sound after modification.
thanks.
What do you suggest I change to? And you said I should change to a larger Heatsink for it, right?
CAT[/quote]
Maybe something like these which can handle 1.5A current http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Semiconductors/power+control/STMICROELECTRONICS/L7806CV/displayProduct.jsp?sku=9756094
You may still get more of a voltage drop when using the Bendix though.
If you feel the 7806 is getting too hot using the Bendix its worth replacing it with a taller heatsink to help lower temperature, just make sure it will physically fit
Can you tell me WHERE is that 6V Regulator? Ha..ha.. I don't know where it is located on the PCB .... :cry:[/quote]
http://www.hififever.com/forum/download.php?id=7690
Top left of board, its the one using the tallest heatsink, it should be marked as 7806
In between big caps, another hint is to change BOTTOM 4700uf capacitor to a 8200uf 16v panasonic FC.
Don't replace the top 4700uf capacitor with a low ESR :wink: 4700uf Elna Starget or 4700uf blackgate is ok for the top one
The super regs and just pcb's I use for the dac chip are available from here http://www.at-view.co.uk/alwsr.htm
You will notice mine looks different and uses added components, I removed the LM317 pre reg and implemented a VBE gyrator using a darlington arrangement, it improves noise rejection
Hi,
Just a question to "t.", your super regulator board seems very interesting... could i have more information about it ? (is a pcb is available somewhere ?,..)
Thanks !
The fillament supply in the Cd33 is done by a simple fixed 6v regulator.
You could maybe try a new 6v reg for the easiest or built a circuit using adajustable LM317 (LM317 is NOT a direct replacement and the circuit would need to be altered)
May also be worth fitting a taller heatsink anyway as a precaution
For e.g, refer the schematic, the diagram below is a supply to the filament, i can change the 6.6 zener diode to adjust the voltage supply to filament.
If your supply filament supply is AC normally they use resistor to control the voltag ethen u can change the resistor to obtain voltage u 1.
If your PS for filament is control by zener as in my diagram, then changing the zener will change the filament voltage.
So what u need to do is to check how's the suppy voltag eto the filament, if u can draw out a schematic of the circuit on this supply to the filament then it will be easier to mod.
the filament voltage 5.6V is ok but i had saw some article say that for 6N3/5670 tube the best result is when filament voltage ~ 5.9-6V (recomended by some audio guy).
I'm thinking what mod to try next, theres a few more things I have planned.
I'm tempted to try hardwiring different tubes, maybe something more popular than the 6n3
Your wordings are really comforting. Glad to hear that finally my CD is at least okay.
As mentioned in the previous post, I re-soldered several points on the PS PCB before I get back the "normal" sound I have. I think the problem arise mainly because I switched to another soldering iron and I am not used to that tip.
Will double check on the Heatsink there. Thanks for your help! :wink:
Your Bendix tubes maybe drawing more current on the fillaments, make sure the fillament regulator heatsink is not getting too hot (tallest heatsink on the PSU board)
Excellent mr Cat those voltages are much better! I now understand why you had 0v for a lot of the pins, without the tubes you only get the Anode and Fillament voltages.
As far as I can see your voltages now seem fine, reason being my voltages are higher for pins 3&7 is because I adjusted the cathode resistors to compensate for the use bypassing the op-amp.
I just finished my FINAL (hopefully it is) readings. This time, I put the tubes back on. Not only that, I also tried out the different tubes I have.
You can see from the KEY I put down on the paper. There are TWO CD 33 for comparisons. First, mine using the Bendix 2C51 tubes. Then comes my friend's CD 33 with the same Bendix type 2C51 and finally the Chinese 6N3 tubes. They produced interesting and very different results.
t. or WINDWSS, can you spot any possible problems here with these readings?
I hope you have a good night sleep. I couldn't sleep well last night and ended up with an headache this whole day up to now.
I took the measurement WITHOUT the tubes. At first, I tried to do it with the tubes on. I place the pin / probe at the soldering point. Then I realised it is kind of dangerous. Therefore, I took all those readings with the tubes pulled out.
I'll have a think and try to post some things for you to try later, its 1:55AM here and I really must go to bed
A schematic would be a very big help regarding fault finding so I hope somebody can find one.
I remember you saying in another post that your CD33 does not sound as good as it did using this new pcb, I think this is because of those voltages :wink:
On a positive note my modified CD33 sounds beautiful! lets hope we can sort yours out!
I re-solder several points in the PS PCB and re-run the unit for a couple of hours. I realised that the "distortion" in High Pitch maybe caused by me using the Telefunken EL84 tubes. They tend to exaggerate the sound too much in my ASL amp. When I change the tubes back to GE 6L6G, the problem seems to be gone.
Will continue to investigate when I have more time this week.
That is strange. We have FOUR CD 33 here that give off similiar readings. We don't have Voltage readings for Tube 1 Pin 2 and 8 whereas yours have. You have more readings for the second tube (closer to the DAC) as well.
I am just an idiot in this field. Does this suggest that there is actually something wrong with the CD 33 design? As you by-passed the Op-amp part, will this affect the tubes' readings?
I will be going back to China next week. I really hope to acquire the schematic for the CD33. Let's see if my friend up there can help. With the schematic, I think experts like you may give us more insight into this issue.
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