Help me build new Hi-Fi system pls. Vote, debate and decide.

Hi there everyone,

I'm new to this website. My name is Jerry, from Melbourne, Australia. I have a home theater setup with DVD-Audio/SACD in my living room.

Lately, I managed to get a pair of second hand speakers and I'm thinking of setting up a pure hi-fi stereo system for the bedroom. There are 2 critical features about this setup:

1. All components must be Made in China (yes i'm chinese, cant read chinese, and yes I'm ashamed of that)

2. The amplifier must be tube/valve based (never had one before, wanna try)

Now I have been reading a lot of the DIY threads in this forum, and I'm am a total newbie to DIY. Also, a lot of posts are in Chinese text which unfortunately I cant read (I can speak~!). So please be patient and dont flame me if I ask questions that have been asked already.

The reason why I want Made in China is due to the explosion of Chinese hi-end kit on the market and partly due to cultural patriotism.

Currently there are several issues with obtaining the equipment. Number one is who and where from. The second concern is about voltage issues. Its 240V/50hz here in Australia.

I have read posts by posters from Malaysia (such as 'Superwhite' et al). What are your experiences with units with 220V/230V operating current? I've heard that valve amps have to be treated with the correct voltage otherwise they break down and the sound quality is horrible. Is there such a problem with CDP too? Help would be appreciated, as I dont want my gear to break down after spending money on it. Any recommendations as to what tube/valve amplifier is good for my pair of 88dB/W bookshelves?

Also, regarding the choice of CDP, I notice that there are several good brands out there:-

1) Shanling (T80 etc)
2) Eastsound (E-5/E-3)
3) Original (A6S/A8S etc)
4) Consonance
5) Bada
6) MHZS (CD33/66/88)

My budget for the CDP is USD700 and below. So guys pls recommend me something. It seems to me the MHZS 33/66 are very popular for modding, which I have no experience in. The original A6s and A8S are also popular DIY too. The Eastsound E-5 I have been told is really good. Your input here is really appreciated as there are no showrooms in Australia for me to audition. So you guys and your input/debate ultimately will influence my choice of amp and CDP.

Also, I dont mind doing some modding (I could learn....) if it tremendously improves gear. No idea as to that. Sounds interesting as a new hobby. However if the gear is good as it is out of the box, all the better. Can anyone comment on the stock models first before we start talking about modding? Also how do the MHZS players stack up (stock)? They seem to be cheapest, along with the A6S.

By the way, besides tube rolling, valve amps can be modded to right? (some on eBay have terrible SNR, 75/78 dB yeck)

Please help. Thanks guys.

p.s. I listen to a lot of R&B, soul and jazz. a bit of blues.

Regards,
Jerry
Hi-Fi noob

What is your total budget?

Hi,

My total budget would be USD1200 for both the amp and CDP. Modding in the future is not included in the budget.

THanks

The 1st steps I will suggest you buy a good power rebuild for isolate the high frequency electric wave.

http://www.chongqinglongyu.com/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=435

It is the best made in China power rebuild isolator as I know.  The cost is about US$900.  You can very easy to feel the different with or without.
The following photo is taken by Mr. stephen2k.  In the right hand size on ground black in color is the power rebuilds isolator Hong Kong vision.

Hi Jerry,

If not mistaken Shanling got oversea agent in Australia.... their tube tube cdp not bad, if compare the MHZS&BADA, shaling's quality is better. Price also higher. There are people here using & modify the shanling so you can get some info.

BADA HD-21's quality not so good. out of 10pcs, ~3pcs may have Disc tray(moving mechanism) problem, laser head might damage fast (depend your luck, my luck bad : ( ~3month start having some problem on reading CD, the circuit board material (especially powerboard) is quite fragile/poor. MHZS cd33's build quality &board material sliGhtly better than HD-21.

So u if got budget and not intent do a lot modification, suggest u to get shanling tube CDP (CD300 or T-80), later if if interested to do modification can start at the power side's capacitor.
By the way what's the speaker (brand &model) u plan to use with the tube amp?? if your speaker sensitivy is low u may need to careful on chosing a match tube amp....

Hi guys,

Thank you for your replies. Yes, Shanling has an local dealer in Australia, but the prices are really high, as you would expect from their price mark up.

The CD300 is a bit too expensive for me as I still need to buy an amp. I think the T-80 is the only one I am considering to buy. They also have cheaper players like the CD-S100 and the SACD SCD-300. Any experience or info on the cheaper shanling players?

The units are all rated 220V. You think this is safe for usage in Australia where its 240V? Or should I get them to install a proper transformer?

My speakers are Aaron AP-1 speakers rated at 89dB spl. They are bookshelves, do well for my room, freq response is only 65hz-20khz.

Hi Jerry,

the voltage is o.k , bcoz most of the item state voltage from 220V-240V, so should be o.k lah, dont worry. :wink:

For the CD player, shanling will be better because of the component that it use, i'm using MHZS CD33 now, bcoz is cheap, n fun to MOD.

Jerry,

How much the T-80 in Australia?

i'm not sure is there any lower grade/rice model of shanling Tube CDP in Aus (A10T/A24T is discontinue). As i know the CD100is not tube cdp. I personally feel that tube CDP is more fun & more modification fun. Can just change the tube to get some improvemnet or adjust the sound quility to suit your taste.

Yes I'm thinking the same thing, as tube CDP looks fun. So at the moment, I think I only have to choose between the Shangling T80 and MHZS Cd33/66.

The T80 is $1495 in Aus, which i think is about $9000 HK.

By the way, whats the difference between triode mode and linear mode in tube amps?

wow...Aus1495 is quite expensive which is RM4000++
how about the MHZS CD33/66?

AS i know CD33 is ~rm1400 (1Aus =~2.77RM), BADA HD21 is ~RM950

If u can get CD33 at around AUS 500 then just get it and spend Aus 200 for modification.....(tube, coupling cap, silver cable at ouput). Spend some $$ modify the power side already can see a lot improvement. (total Aus 700)

or if Aus 350 can get Bada HD-21 & spend Aus 350 on modification (change the 3 ecap at powerside to Blackgate, power coupling cap, coupling cap for opa near out put, the elna ecap near output to blackgate N series tube,bypass or change opa to opa627) then u alraedy can get quite good sounding(shld be better or equal to shanling original unmodified T-80) the advantage of Bada is that it only use 1 tube (cheaper while change tube). The casing especially bottom is less solid compare cd33. the quality of circuit board for tube side is similar. But power circuitboard is poorer quality than cd33(total Aus700)

If that's case above where u spend total cost of Aus 700. I guess Bada will sound better than cd33.

both cd33 &bada hd21 using sony cd mechanism & laser head. Quality almost same depend on your luck!!!